How and When to Shear Your Goats

If you're raising goats to harvest the fiber for your own use or to sell, you need to know the basics of shearing. Not all goats have the same requirements. For example, you need to shear Angora goats twice a year to get the most fiber. You don't shear cashmere- or cashgora-producing goats; instead you comb or pluck the fiber once a year.

You need to shear your mohair-producing goats in the early spring and early fall. Make sure not to shear cashmere-producing goats because you will lower the value and quality of the fiber by mixing coarser guard hair with the fine, valuable cashmere.

Shearing isn't hard to do, but it's hard on your back because you have to bend over. If you have only a few goats you can use scissors or hand shears. If you can afford it and want to do all the shearing yourself, you can also invest in electric sheep shears, which range from $300 and up. Otherwise, you're better off hiring a professional shearer to come to your farm.

To prepare your goats for shearing:

A few weeks prior to shearing, use a pour-on insecticide containing permethrin or pyrethrin to kill lice and ticks.

If the weather is rainy or snowy, keep your goats confined for 24 hours before shearing so that they stay dry.

Clean and add new bedding to a dry shelter to keep the goats out of inclement weather for a month or so after they have been shorn. They're more prone to health problems without their protective coats.

Start your shearing with the youngest goats and work in order of age because the youngest usually have the best fiber.

When you're shearing a goat, always use long, smooth strokes. Doing so keeps the fleece in longer pieces, which makes it easier to work with and increases its value. Be careful not to cut the skin, taking special care on the belly, the area where the legs and body meet, the scrotum, and the teats. If you do accidentally cut a goat while shearing, treat it with an antibiotic spray such as Blu-Kote.

Before you shear, get the following supplies together:

Blow dryer

Sheep shears

Grooming stand or stanchion

Scissors

Paper bags, pillowcases, or baskets to hold the fiber

Postal or hanging scale for weighing fiber

Follow these steps to shear a goat:

Secure your goat on the stanchion or grooming stand.

Blow any hay or other debris out of the goat's coat.

Use your blow dryer on high speed.

Shear the goat's belly.

Start at the bottom of its chest and move to its udder or scrotal area.

Shear each side.

Work from the belly up to the spine, back leg to front leg.

Shear each back leg.

Work from the beginning of the coat upward to the spine.

Shear the neck.

Start at the bottom of the throat and work to the top of the chest on the bottom and from the chest to the ears on the top and sides.

Shear the top of the back.

Work from the crown of the head to the tail.

Remove any excess hair that you missed with your scissors.

One area often missed is in the area of the udder or testicles.

Release your goat.

Check the fiber.

Separate any stained or soiled fleece or other contaminants. Weigh the unsoiled fleece, roll it up, put it in a paper bag, and mark the bag with the weight of the fleece, the goat's name and age, and the date sheared. Store fleece in a dry area.

Sweep the area.

Make sure the next goat to be sheared starts with a clean area.

How to Groom Your Goats

If you're raising goats as part of a green lifestyle, your goats won't require a lot of grooming. But grooming pays dividends in the long run by making the goat feel better (who doesn't feel better with a good brushing?), enabling you to evaluate the goat's health, and giving the goat more experience with being handled.

Here are some basic grooming tasks:

Brushing: Brushing removes dandruff and loose hair that some goats get and increases blood flow — improving the health of the skin and coat. It also gives you an opportunity to check for any signs of illness or disease, such as a lump, swelling, or other abnormality. At a minimum, brush goats in the late spring or early summer, when they're shedding or throwing off the undercoat that kept them warm in the winter. Use a firm-bristled grooming brush like you can get in any feed store or livestock supply catalog.

Brush in the direction of the coat starting at the neck, then down the back and down the sides. Make sure to brush the neck, chest, legs, and abdomen.

Bathing: You don't have to bathe goats, but doing so helps remove the lice, makes clipping easier, and keeps your clipper blades sharp for a longer time. Goats prefer to be washed with warm water but will survive the inevitable cold water that is all most of us have available. Use a goat or animal shampoo.

You can use a collar to secure a baby goat or a goat that you can easily control. Secure other goats on a milk stand or by putting on a collar and attaching it to a fence. After the goat is secure, just wet it, lather up the shampoo, and rinse.

If you plan to clip the goat right away, blow-dry its hair. Otherwise, let the goat dry naturally.

Clipping: An annual clipping is a good idea for all goats. Shorter hair helps goats stay cooler and allows sunlight to reach their skin, which drives away lice and other critters. Choose a day after the cold weather is expected to be over.

Two areas that most people clip more frequently are the tail area prior to kidding and the udder during milking season:

Tail to kid: Before, during, and after kidding, blood and fluids stick to the goat's tail and the coat around the tail. Clip up the sides of the tail, across the end of the tail to make a short little brush, and around the vulva area and inside top of the back legs.

Udder: Removing hair from the belly and udder makes the udder easier to clean before milking and prevents hairs from falling into the milk.

Trimming hooves: Keeping a goat's hooves trimmed is one of the easiest, least expensive, and most important parts of goat care. Regular trimming takes very little time and cuts down on health care expenses in the long term.